After writing my post about "What Age To Start Using Anti-Ageing Skin Care", I thought I'd share with you my Top 10 Anti-Ageing Skin Care Ingredients.
The world of anti-ageing skin care is vast, complex and very confusing! I get asked by clients all the time, which anti-ageing skin care ingredients really work and are worth the investment, in both time and money. So here they are, anti-ageing ingredients with a proven track history, not just a fancy trademark name!
AHA's / BHA's
Alpha Hydroxy & Beta Hydroxy Acids are anti-ageing in multiple ways. These chemical exfoliants are able to resurface the skin, refining skin tone and texture. They have the ability to repair barrier function and balance oil production. They're also very potent antioxidants in their own right!
I recommend and use both L-Lactic Acid and Salicylic Acid in the form of our skin peels and also home care products such as CosMedix Purity Clean, Purity Balance and Clarity Serum.
Vitamin A in the form of Retinol is a wonder product for increasing the skins natural cell turnover, encouraging collagen and elastin synthesis, improving the skins firmness and repairing barrier function. However, some forms of Retinol can be very irritating to the skin, causing further inflammation. A better way of getting Vitamin A in your skin is to use a combination of Retinol and Retinaldehyde, encased in a protein called AGP, to ensure the vital Vitamin A reaches the deeper layers of the epidermis instead of causing irritation on the surface.
CosMedix Benefit Peel has an impressive 20% Retinol AGP and Timeless Peel, a whopping 40%! As for home care, I'd recommend CosMedix Serum 16, which has 16% LG-Retinex Complex, plus a whole host of other anti-ageing ingredients.
A powerful antioxidant, Vitamin C is able to reduce inflammation and environmental damage, treat pigmentation, brighten and firm the skin. Vitamin C is also the precursor for collagen production, so without it, your skin is unable to produce collagen, the supporting structure of the skin and wrinkles are formed. The issue with Vitamin C is it's highly unstable.
For this reason, Vitamin C is best kept in powder form, so each dose is fresh and potent. CosMedix Benefit Peel is high in Vitamin C and for home care I'd recommend CosMedix Pure C Mixing Crystals, which can be mixed with any serum, mask or cream to boost it's effects. Alternatively, look for a fatty Vitamin C Ester, which is also stable.
Alpha Lipoic Acid
A very powerful and potent antioxidant, which is both fat and water soluble, therefore has the ability to protect skin cells in their entirety. Alpha Lipoic Acid also boosts the effects of other antioxidants such as Vitamin C & E. As well as fighting free radicals, Alpha Lipoic Acid is anti-inflammatory, as it prevents pro-inflammatory chemicals from being produced. Alpha Lipoic Acid also has the ability to prevent and even reverse glycation, an ageing process caused by sugar attaching itself to proteins and lipids in the skin.
I take Viridian's Alpha Lipoic Acid DMAE Complex, to fight the ageing process from the inside. For serious anti-ageing eye treatment, I'd also recommend Opti Crystals, which contains a chiral form of Alpha Lipoic Acid.
DMAE, an acronym for dimethylaminoethanol, is a very powerful antioxidant which has the ability to protect cell membrane, improve the appearance of sagging skin, loss of firmness and smooth lines & wrinkles.
The best place to find DMAE is in fish. However to consume the amount of fish necessary to get enough DMAE to benefit the skin, would be highly impractical for most people. Therefore I get mine from a Viridian Alpha Lipoic Acid DMAE Complex supplement.
Spin Traps have been described as "intelligent antioxidants", as they have the ability to distinguish between "good oxygen" molecules and "bad oxygen" molecules, otherwise known as free radicals. Spin Traps target and 'trap' only the free radical / reactive oxygen species, leaving the 'good oxygen' to oxygenate (deliver oxygen to) the skin (a good thing).
In the same process Spin Traps are also able to switch OFF your skins proinflammatory protein called cytokines, so has an anti-inflammatory benefit.
Found naturally in red wine and cocoa, Resveratrol is a potent antioxidant to protect against collagen and elastin breakdown. It has the ability to protect against sun damage and reduces cellular damage. Unlike some antioxidants, Resveratrol is highly stable.
Resveratrol can be found in CosMedix Pomegranate Peel, ideal for reversing sun damage and pigmentation. Plus in CosMedix Affirm Antioxidant Firming Serum.
Peptides are short chain amino acids, which have the ability to penetrate in to the skin, sending signals to our cells on how to function. They're the building blocks of protein in our skin, therefore without Peptides our skin would lose firmness and structure.
To boost your ant-ageing skin care regime and include Peptides at home, including CosMedix Affirm Antioxidant Firming Serum and Opti Crystals.
Epidermal Growth Factors
When we're young, we have growth factors in abundance. They're what make our cells regenerate quickly, making us grow and heal much faster. As we age, the amount of growth factors we produce naturally decreases. Epidermal Growth Factors or EGF's are skin care ingredients that send signals to our skin to produce more growth factors. Leaving us with younger looking skin and able to recover from injury quicker.
I'd recommend Epidermal Growth Factors in CosMedix Cell ID and Opti Crystals.
A component of Vitamin B3, has the ability to increase ceramides in the skin (the glue that holds everything together), preventing water loss and stimulating microcirculation in the dermis. Niacinamide also has the ability to lighten skin discolouration for a more youthful, uniform skin tone, therefore great for both ageing and acneic skins!
I'd recommend CosMedix Clarity Serum.
Other ingredients worthy of noting;
- Astaxanthin - Able to protect against and reverse sun damage. Find it in CosMedix Pomegranate Peel and Virdian S.P.F. supplement.
- SOD - Superoxide Dismutase - a potent antioxidant found in CosMedix Reflect (of course sunscreen is one of the MOST important anti-ageing products) and Virdian S.P.F. supplement.
- Grape Seed Extract - A powerful antioxidant that is referred to as proanthocyanidins and helps to protect collagen throughout the body. Find it in Viridian S.P.F. Supplement.
NOTE: Originally posted on the Samsara website but as that is soon to be closed down, I'm tweaking and moving some of the content over to here. The good stuff that is relevant at least. After all, I wrote it and it's a shame for it to go to waste!